Saturday, August 11, 2018

We arose very early the next morning in order to get started on our summit bid by 4 a.m. We hiked by headlamp the first couple of miles. Once we crested the first ridge, there was a decent use trail to follow down to the second ridge we had to cross. Yes, we had to go down before starting back up. As we came over the second ridge, we were treated to our first real glimpse of Granite Peak, which hides itself out of view behind intervening ridges for the first two-plus days.

There was a short pitch of rather steep snow to cross before we started the climb to the summit. Without ice axe and crampons, the JHMG guides set up a belay in case anyone slipped out of the boot track across the snow. No problem, as we made it across easily and then started the mixed climbing up a series of slopes and chutes to the summit of Granite Peak.

As is well described in the guide books, the final climb is a mixture of exposed 3rd-class scrambling, 4th-class climbing and a couple of pitches of easy 5th-class climbing. We climbed the 3rd-class pitches free but Eddie belayed us up the 4th- and 5th-class pitches. We topped out in brilliant sunshine and a light breeze about 10:30 a.m.

The summit block is marked with a USGS benchmark. We shared summit photo duties and spent an hour or so enjoying the view from the highest point in Montana before starting our descent and return back to our high camp.

This summit ticked off my 48th state highpoint. Not the 48 (as in the 48 conterminous states) since Nathan and I did Hawai'i a few years ago. Still left on the to-do list are Boundary Peak, NV, and (possibly) Denali Peak, AK. It felt good to know that the only remaining highpoint in the lower 48 is a relatively easy scramble, having now completed the really tough ones in the western states.

It was good to have shirtsleeve weather for summit photos. There were a few other folks who came up either by the traditional route or the newer Southwest Ramp route, so we traded off group summit photo duties. Our intrepid group of six climbers plus three guides all reached the summit within the span of about 15 minutes. The JHMG guides are great at leading climbers of varying abilities up a challenging route. The group ranged in ages from teens through sixties, so age was no deterrent.

The view from the summit of Granite Peak is another reward for the effort of getting there. We definitely had a bluebird day for our summit attempt, so we took time to enjoy the view and eat lunch atop the highest peak in Montana.

Part of the Highpointers' mantra is, "The summit is only halfway." The upper part of the mountain requires a mix of belayed downclimbing and rappelling. I am used to rappelling, so I ended up going down the steepest bits first. My climbing partner was a little spooked at the exposure on the rappels but made it down in good form anyway. Once we got off the steep rocks, we were faced with a choice between scrambling down next to a large snowfield or glissading down a rope strung out by the guides. That proved to be quite a time-saver and, with the rope wrapped around one arm and a carabiner clipped to the rope, a safe way to descend under control.

The rest of the route back to camp retraced our steps of the (very early) morning, regaining the altitude we lost getting to the second ridge. Once back at camp, we ate dinner and settled down for our last night on the mountain.